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Brandon Pullan - New Mixed Crag near Calgary and More!! 09/04/2008
Here's an update from our newest Canadian sponsee, Brandon Pullan - click here to read more about Brandon - who has developed a lovely little spot for some winter fun quite close to Calgary....Rockies: Fun Alpine Climbing and New Mixed Routes by Brandon Pullan OR how we found 'The Rehab Wall' My partner, Will Meinen, was just coming off of a few months with a broken ankle. We ventured out searching for new routes and stumbled upon a small wall that had recently been discovered. We found over ten new routes waiting to be had. For the next 6 weekends we packed our bags and headed back to the Rehab Wall (named for Will’s period of Rehabilitation) and climbed new routes. With many pure ice lines completed we turned our attention to the steep walls splattered with drips. I got on the sharp end and first bolted Yoga Monster, ground up. It is an enjoyable M5, WI4 that pieces together rock and ice for some 30m. We then climbed two other M4, WI4’s until we set our sights on the test piece of the crag: Physiotherapy M8, WI5 50m. This climb is spectacular and climbs up a steep wall with great rock to a 5 foot roof and 15m curtain. There is still a ton of potential for new routes, we hope other people develop in that area. Aroma-Therapy WI3+R, 35m FA: Brandon Pullan, Will Meinen, Danny O’Farrell - Climb up thin curtain to narrow thin ribbon. Fun and Fitness WI4, 45m FA: Will Meinen, Brandon Pullan, Danny O’Farrell - Up a thin drip then onto fat ice to steep wall. Physio-Therapy M8, WI5, 50m FA: Will Meinen, Brandon Pullan - 5 Star mixed climb! Up the wild and steep horizontal bands with ice drips and good rests the whole way, long reaches on positive slots. Then, up ribbon behind HUGE hanging curtain and bust up thru wild roof! A must do! Acupuncture M4, WI4, 20m FA: B Pullan, W Meinen, O’Farrell - Thin ice, past bolt and up chandeliered steep drips to ledge, v-thread. The Treatment M5, WI4 35m FA: B Pullan, O’Farrell, W Meinen - Up thin edges onto ice, 20m up good ledge, then balance up thin smear and traverse past a bolt and off a ledge into trees. Yoga Monster M5, WI4 20m FA: B Pullan, O’Farrell, W Meinen - Past 4 bolts and up between two drips to ledge, bolted anchor. And as a bonus it's the closest mixed crag to Calgary! Coire Dubh Integral 5.7 WI3 550m Driving into the Rockies from Calgary one is faced with an awesome wall of rock north of the highway, The Goat Wall. Broken by gullies, run offs and drainages the wall is over 1500m’s long and 800m’s high in spot. It houses many summer rock routes and one classic winter alpine climb. Coire Dubh was once a mere 300m ice climb, but some time ago a party ventured onto the rock above the ice flow and added 300m of great mixed climbing. We started out at about 9 AM and after the 1.5 hour approach were at the base of the 600m route. We roped up and soloed the first 300m of WI3 ice climbing up soft plastic ice until we were at the base of the first rock pitch. I geared up, took the crampons off and started the lead of the crux 5.7 corner. I should never have taken my crampons off because before I knew it my frozen up, hard as hell rubber alpine boots were slipping off of every small ledge I tried to stand on. Gripped, I fired in some gear and put my crampons back on for the rest of the pitch. Will Meinen and I swapped pitches until we were standing on one of the windiest summits I have ever stood on. The sun was a warm welcome after 4 hours on the shaded east face. The route follows rambling ice until the start of the rock pitches, from here many variations are possible, the correct one being the driest and easiest! The rock is considered amazing by Canadian Rockies standards with great protection the entire way. A small rack is needed: only 2 or 3 friends, a few nuts and about 3 pitons (if that). I was a great way to get out and get some mileage and the route is highly recommended. It has been a great start to the 2008 season and the rock is just warming up here in the Canadian Rockies!
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