Zeros Are Different

Because Zeros cams are different, especially Zeros 1 & 2, it is important that you take a little more care with them ands so we’ve put together some advice and hints and tips to help you make the most out of the beautiful units.

Strength - Whilst every effort has been made to make Zeros as strong as possible the extreme nature and radical design of this product has limited the amount of strength they have, especially in the smaller sizes. Zeros 1 and 2 are rated at 3kn and 4kn respectively, which means that in terms of the European Standards EN12276 (CE) they only meet the criteria for ‘Progression Equipment’ and are not rated for ‘Free Climbing’, which requires a minimum of 5kn.
A similar criteria is applied in the testing for ‘nuts’ where the minimum standard below which a device becomes ‘Progression Equipment’ is 2kn. Therefore many of the smaller nuts including Mini-Rocks, Wallnuts, Peenuts, Stoppers, and RPs are rated as progression equipment, yet are all used for free climbing and are essential ingredients to any rack.

Zeros 1 and 2 were designed primarily to extend an aid climbers rack but with a distinct nod to the free climber and as their rated is 3kN and 4KN respectively it is quite clear that they will perform the same role as the small nuts described above.

Function - It is important to understand that two these units are a step forward in our understanding of size and performance. As with any new device there will be a period of adjustment getting used to the new techniques necessary to achieve the best results. From our testing it became obvious that Zeros 1 and 2 unlike larger cams, need a different approach.
What has become clear is that they are easier to place from a static position in aiders, as a direct aid tool, than in the midst of a dynamic free climbing move! Moreover it was found that the stem cable will bend a little during placement and removal – this is one of the consequences of such small units – and the more gently the cams are pulled back the easier they were to place.

Placement Dynamics

A. General Placement / Depth of Placement
Placing Zeros 3 - 6 – Overall, placing Zero cams 3 – 6 is not really much different to placing any other cam. The same general rules apply, that the mid range of the cams expansion is strongest, the cam should be placed with the stem in the direction of anticipated fall and should not if possible be placed blind. However there are some advantages in placing Zeros in that there is less leverage from the head so they can be placed more safely in shallow slots.

Placing Zeros 1 & 2 - Due to the size of the smaller units we are are emphasising that there is caution exercised when placing them and that perhaps more diligence is used when seeking a slot. Essentially placing a Zero 1 & 2 should be treated more like placing a small RP or similar brass nut…carefully!
Picture A - shows ideal mid range Zero Cam placement for maximum strength.
The expansion range on these units is very small and therefore the margin of error is equally small. Therefore it is vitally important that all the cams make contact with the sides of the crack, preferable in the middle of their expansion range. Try to inspect the placement carefully to ensure that all four cams are in contact with the crack, paying particular attention to the two rear cams which will be difficult to see.

Even relatively smooth rock, has an irregular surface which can allow the cams to expand out of range. Obviously the deeper the placement the less visible the unit and the greater the possibility of poor positioning so our testers recommend relatively shallow placing. Try to avoid deep placements where setting and retracting the cams will be problematic.

B Maximum strength
As a general principal in order to obtain the maximum strength from Zeros, they should always be placed with the stem in line with the anticipated direction of leading. This will ensure that the force of the fall will be transmitted directly to the cams in their plane of rotation and will avoid adverse torsional forces on the stem. Picture B - shows stem direction in Zero Cam placement for maximum strength.

C Horizontal Placement + D Vertical Placement
Zero cams are designed specifically to work in extreme horizontal placements and shallow vertical cracks. Flexibility to the base of the cams means no termination to lever out the placement. But be aware these extreme direct aid placements require expert training and may only support body weight.
Pictures C + D - show more extreme shallow placement which can be made with Zeros because of their lack of leverage.
Caution: When removing Zero cams take care to avoid exerting excessive force on the trigger mechanism, due to the miniaturisation of the components (particularly with Zeros 1 & 2 rated as progression equipment). The Trigger mechanisms are rated at only 45Kgs. And so you will find a gentle approach when place or retracting Zeros reaps rewards in speed and safety. .

E. Utilising Camstops
Zero cams are the first micro cams to have cam stops rated to the strength of the unit. During testing we found that they performed an important role in anchoring the unit in extreme direct aid placements. It is not recommended that this is not the first choice of placement and should only be undertaken by very experienced climbers. We would not recommend this as a deliberate placement technique for free climbers except in the most extreme circumstances.

Read more by Going To 2006 Zeros Cams Technical Specifications

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