Buys and Whittaker send big numbers at Earl Crag
27th Mar 2010
A busy day on one of Yorkshire's premier grit edges with a new route and some audacious repeats from two of Wild Country 2010 climbing team...
Watch video of Pete Whittaker on French Duke E9...
New Route at Earl Crag by Jordan Buys
“Peter Whittaker snatched the much coveted second ascent of my super route (if I may say so myself) French Duke, E9 7a, between inconvenient showers on Friday 11th March 2010, while I snagged the first ascent of ‘The Baron of Boing’ at E7 6C. Pete had been trying the route for a few days during a period of fantastic conditions and had managed to suss out the sequence along with some potential gear. The day dawned, we were set for success but the rain threatened to stop play.
Whilst Pete tried to keep French Duke clean and dry, I had a go at the new line to the left. This route climbs to the Mindbomb ledge and then attacks the problematic left arete/wall via a distant edge on the left wall. I had previously attempted a lead one week earlier but aborted after the gear unexpectedly ripped and I decked out onto my back. I kind of bounced but it did hurt. This time I returned armed with more pads, spotters and some Superlight Rocks, backing up the Zero cams. This time the gear managed to hold, and it was a good job too as I fell off the crux repeatedly!! The gear is well below your feet for this move and only just takes as you hit the pads below on rope stretch.
Things were turning epic, the rain was back and I managed to scrape my shin down to the bone on the tricky start sequence, so I passed the baton to Pete and his battle with French Duke.
He had managed to rig a very interesting looking sling wrapped around the small ledge feature (without any side runners) and was hoping that this would slow him down a bit if he were to come off the crux. He chose to try the sling because he had tested the gear I used on the first ascent (out right, where I originally started FD) and it had exploded spectacularly when he rested on it. Uh-oh! Anyhow, he climbed up and placed his sling and some VERY low cams, down climbed, and then had to sit out a rain shower.
Fortunately, the wind was also out to play and within minutes the route was dry again. He set off confidently and was pretty quickly into the crux sequence. This went very smoothly but then Pete suddenly started to flounder - he was desperately slapping and grasping at the slopers above, with a strangled cry of "watch me". We could hardly bear to look as he clawed his way up the final few moves, facing a certain ground fall from 10 metres. But then he was on the top, breathing heavily and shaking like a leaf! Well, it was the hardest belaying I've ever done, I was prepared to sprint down the hill like Usain Bolt in my wellies.....
When Peter reached the ground, he decided to give his sling a tug to see how well it would have worked - one pull from underneath and it came straight off with him rolling down the hill! Good job he didn't take the fall! Also, when he took his cams out he could almost reach them from the floor - they really are only just above head height!
Team psyche - it was my turn again. After two more falls off the crux of the new route I was feeling despondent, with a split tip to show for my troubles. Last week's fall was playing on my mind. After utilising a bit of tape and superglue, I knew I only had one go left. Jump to the break, undercut to the ledge, mantel. Breathe. Chalk. Ignore the drizzle. Fondle the holds, place toe on the pebble and...leap! This time my fingers closed over the edge and I knew I was in, happy to make the pleasurable moves to the top. Hurray! "The Baron of Boing" was born.
Still fuelled by adrenaline, Pete was keen for a quick repeat (he had previously worked the moves on ab) and did the deed in fine style. As for the grade, it is a big move, but definitely will be easier for the tall, who may not even have to 'boing'! It is a serious proposition without lots of mats and the gear is too low for comfort so... maybe E7 6c for the climber of average stature, but possibly E6 6b for the very tall. It was great fun and there were some lovely rainbows."
Read more about Jordan Buys here....
Read more about Pete Whittaker here...
Read more about Zero Friends here...
Read more about Superlight Rocks here...
See more about Wild Country climbers here..
