Ben Heason Meshuga E9 6C - Video and more...
2nd Apr 2010
On Saturday 27th March Ben Heason headpointed the Black Rocks test piece Meshuga E9 6c. Immortalised by Seb Grieve’s first ascent in the conclusion to possibly the most iconic climbing video of all time, ‘Hard Grit’, Meshuga has a reputation as one of the finest, but also the most dangerous routes on gritstone.
“Meshuga is one of the few remaining grit routes I was motivated to headpoint, and I’d wanted to climb it for years; that photo of Seb on the cover of “Hard Grit”, a constant, nagging reminder. I finally got around to trying it just before Christmas and was surprised to find the quality of the climbing to be even better than I expected; but shortly afterwards I left for Spain in my van for a couple of months.
Returning from Spain’s coldest winter in 95 years, having on-sighted an 8a and redpointed an 8b I knew I could climb Meshuga - but my priority was training for an upcoming short return trip to Spain.
However, the fantastic grit weather over the past few weeks kept enticing me outdoors, away from my training. At times I found myself beneath the ominous prow with trashed arms from training, but I was reluctant to prioritise Meshuga over training for my sport climbing aims. At only about F7c/+ (albeit a slightly insecure one) I knew Meshuga was just a matter of time, the sport project isn’t.
After a few more visits it was starting to feel pretty reliable so I knew it was on. Keeping a close eye on the weather forecast I noticed that this weeks weather was taking a significant turn for the worse, and I didn’t want it to drag on, so I sacrificed my training schedule by taking a rest day and, more crucially, I sacrificed a great party on Friday night by driving so that I could leave by 1am, to make sure I was in good shape for my last opportunity, possibly this season.
Whilst checking for ‘beta’ online I’d noticed a comment after a youtube video about a possible ‘sky hook’ placement before the crux, but that it took up one of the handholds. Unconvinced, I was surprised to find that it did indeed fit the strange pocket below the crux slap, and I could still do the sequence without the pocket. Initially I was intending to tie the hook down to the ground, which would have made it a fair bit more reliable, but after deliberating I decided that I wasn’t ethically happy with this, so I opted to tape it down with duck tape instead. I also placed the dodgy friend #3; which had a history of ripping if tested…
I tested none of the gear on a top rope, for fear of damaging the placement or damaging my confidence in the gears ability to hold a fall. I was confident I wouldn’t fall.
The ascent went extremely well, feeling solid and easy, as one would hope on a route like that. Thanks to George and Alfie, and hats off to Seb for leading the way all those years ago.
See all the photos of Meshuga here...
See more about the Rock Lite helmet Ben wears on the route, here...
See more about Matador shoes Ben's wearing, here..
