Stefan Glowacz en route to Patagonia...
23rd Jan 2012
Red Chili founder and extreme climber Stefan Glowacz on his way to Patagonia
Red Chili Blog, 23. Januar 2012
Red Chili founder Stefan Glowacz is on his way to Patagonia to explore a new route. His goal is to ascend a 1 200 meter high, yet untouched route at Fitz Roy with Christian Schlesener, Horatio Gratton and fotographer Klaus Fengler. They don’t know much about the route. They think they have about 1 200 meters to climb in over 30 pitches in mixed terrain. It’s probably the hardest part in the wall with climbs in the upper ninth, lower tenth grade. They’re assuming to have a compact wall with no ledges, only cracks. They will know more once they’re there.
Stefan Glowacz in Patagonia. Foto: Klaus Fengler
We spokte to Stefan before he left for his next big adventure:
How are you feeling?
The tension is rising. There’s always alot to discuss with my partners Marmot, Red Bull and Gore Tex and of course with my company Red Chili. I’m realizing just now, a few hours before we leave, that it’s starting to get serious. I trained much, I’m in shape. I ran and biked more than ever before. I’m ready physically and mentally even more! I’m familiar with the terrain on Fitz Roy and this first ascent is going to be a real hard one!
What are you taking with you?
Though we narrowed down what we need pretty well we still have about 200 kilos to take with us. In the end you need to take everything you need with you, even though there is material available in El Chalten. But we don’t want to rely on that. I’m really looking forward to seeing if the line we’re planning to ascend is possible. The crack looks really exposed and steep, but that’s exactly what we’re looking for.
Stefan Glowacz in action in Patagonia. Foto: Klaus Fengler
What special about Patagonia?
The unpredictable weather is probably the trademark of Patagonia. The bad weather episodes are usually longer that the good ones. It’s about tactical skills, about being at the right place at the right time.
What’s special about this expedition?
A first ascent is always something special, especially on Fitz Roy. That mountain is world-famous and one of the most beautiful ones you can possibly find on this planet. If this expedition is successful it will definitely be a highlight in the climbing careers of us all.
Lunch break in Patagonia. Foto: Klaus Fengler
We wish Stefan and his team the best of luck and good weather! We will post short updates about the expedition on his Facebook Page.
