Odd-Roar Wilk (Norway)

In his own words:

"I was born in November 1973 in the Lofoten Islands of Northern Norway. At the moment I’m living in the Romsdal Valley on Norway’s west coast. I am working for a Norwegian company as a Rope Access Supervisor between climbing trips.

Climbing has been my main focus probably since I was 16. These days I work in the oil industry about 1/3 of the year, the rest of the time I play on steep pieces of rock around the world.

Started climbing in 1987 and after just a couple of years started doing new routes in the Lofoten Islands. Since then I’ve done hundreds of new routes, mostly in Norway but also in places like Yosemite, Zion, Greenland and Baffin Island. Routes vary from 10 meter long sportclimbs to 1500 meter long wall climbs. New routes are fun, and I find it very inspiring to explore new stuff.

After many years of trad climbing and walls I’ve now had a period where the main focus has been sport climbing and bouldering. It’s fun to try to improve even after climbing for many years. My focus is again changing and old wall projects and unclimbed lines are getting back into the light.

First Ascents (selected)

Alpine:

  • First winter ascent of Vågakallens Storpillar, winter ascent grade VI A3 M6( Lofoten Islands, Norway).
  • First free ascent of Vågakallens Storpillar, 5.11+(Lofoten Islands, Norway).
  • Tsavagattaq East Ridge, 1500 m, 5.11-(North East Greenland).
  • North Norwegian Variation to Bulgarian Route, 6a+, Aguja De La ‘S’(Patagonia, Argentina).
  • Insomnia, IV A1 5.10,The Turrett(Baffin Island, Canada)

Big Walls:

  • Allied Forces, VI A3 5.10, El Capitan(Yosemite, USA)
  • Norwegian Route, VII A4 5.10, North Face of Polar Sun Spire(Baffin Island, Canada)
  • Cos the Boss, V A3 5.10, Nagunt Mesa(Kolob Canyon, USA)
  • En Forbundsfiende, VI A3 5.10(Kjerag, Norway)
  • Markens Grøde, VI A2+ M4/M5, winter, Mongejura(Romsdal, Norway)

Ice & Mixed:

  • Feigelinja, 1400m, WI 5, Trollklørne, Romsdal, Norway.
  • Hyperventilator, M7? WI 4, Grovfjord, Norway.
  • Northeast gully of Vågakallen, 700m, Alpine 5, Lofoten, Norway

Freeclimbing:

  • Sportclimbing first ascents up to 5.13b, and trad up to 5.12.

Repeats(select):

Alpine:

  • Rimmon Route, V 5.10, Troll Wall(fastest ascent of wall to date 7:08?), Romsdal, Norway.
  • Frendo Spur, TD, Midi, Winter ascent, Chamonix ,France.
  • Whillians Route on Poincenot and Brenner Ridge on Guillaumet in Argentine Patagonia

Big Walls:

  • Jolly Roger, VI 5.10 A5, fifth ascent, El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
  • Roulette, VI A5, fifth ascent, Leaning Tower, Yosemite, USA.
  • The Nose, in a day, El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
  • Salathe Wall, in a day, El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
  • Also Zodiac, Eagles Way, New Dawn, Sunkist…

Ice & Mixed

  • Waterfall ice up to WI6 I guess and mixed up to M7 or so.

Freeclimbing:

I have done loads of cragging and bouldering in Europe and the US over the years. Redpointed sport routes up to 5.13b/c and done trad routes up to 5.12. Also bouldered up to 7C/7C+....."