Jenny Woodward (UK)
The beginnings or 'How I started climbing…
My first climbing trip was a bit of a mistake. I was at Newcastle University in 1990 and the mountaineering club were going to the Lakes. I thought we’d be walking up a nice big hill but we ended up at Shepherd’s top-roping a Diff slab. I was definitely not a natural – I remember finding it all pretty scary and enjoying the cakes at Shepherd’s café more than the routes. Anyhow, I ended up joining the club and climbing quite a bit in the Lakes, Northumberland and the Peak.
Within about a year the bug had bitten – partly I think because there were a couple of very good women climbers in Newcastle who really inspired me. I think this meant I never expected women to climb worse than men – I thought they were naturally just as good.
Over the next five years or so I kept climbing and developed a long lasting affection for Northumberland sandstone. Forays to the Alps and winter trips to Scotland confirmed that carrying rucksacks full of ropes and gear up big hills was definitely not for me!
I discovered UK sport climbing in about 1997 when I lived in Nottingham for a year. Evening dashes to Cheedale to redpoint things like Kiss me Hardy and Bored of the Lies began – and I loved it. A trip climbing in American, Australia and New Zealand followed. I think by about then I was hooked.
I now live in Yorkshire within 40 minutes of Malham and Kilnsey and in walking distance of Shipley Glen. It’s the perfect place (well, other than the South of France!)
The Routes
In the UK…
Supercool (F8a+) was the first F8 route I did. Stepping into the cave at the top was fantastic. I think it took me about 8 days to do one August but it never felt too much of a trial – the holds are just perfect.
I climbed Zoolook **(F8a) in August or September 2004. It took me about 13 days in total. I’d always wanted to climb this line but there was a move just after the mid height rest that I found particularly hard (I’m blaming reach!). After a trip climbing in Europe when I was pretty fit I decided to have a more determined go. It took me about 3 days working out how to do that one move and then many more falling off pumped.
The Bulge (F8a)** took 8 or 9 days in total in August 2005. Again, it’s a great route and one that I did partly because of the super steep top – I’m more at home on crimps so thought it would do me good!
A selection of other routes in the UK:
- The Ashes (7c+)
- Threadbare (7c+)
- Herbie (7c+)
- New Dawn (7c)
- Body Machine (7c)
- Comedy (7c)
- Serious Young Toads (7c)
- Tremelo (7c)
- Chiselling the Dragon (7c)
- Metal Guru (7c)
- Tragedy (7c)
- Myra Hindley (7c)
- Lightweight (7c).
In Europe…
Ceuse:
- Vagabond d’occident (7c)
- Berlin (7c / 7c+)
- La Chose (7c)
- Orpierre: ? 7c / 7c+
Frankenjura:
- Ab durch die Mitte (7c+) – at Marientaler Wand
- Chasin’ the Trane (7c) at Krottenseer Turm
- Engelberg: Strammer Bolzen (7c).
I’ve on-sighted or flashed some F7b+ routes in places like the Frankenjura, Saint Leger and Chateau Vert. I’d like to do more on-sighting – but it’s a bit tricky in Yorkshire (I seem to have run out of do-able routes!).
Some Bouldering in the UK
- West Side Story 7B+**, at Burbage West (to the break)
- Hitchhikers at Kyloe Inn (from standing - Font 7a+)
- Captain Haddock at Bowden (Font 7a+)
- Demon Wall Roof (V7)
- Phil’s Wall (V7)
- Desert Island Arete (V7)
**I can’t be completely sure but think these are all first female ascents. I’m almost certain about Zoolook and the Bulge. In the case of WSS I think it is – there were rumours that Courtney had done it (a friend from the US) but whilst we worked out how to do it together she wasn’t able to come back and do it.
Competitions
I’ve never really been into the idea of doing comps but decided to have a go at the BICCs last year (2005). It took me a while to get my head round climbing routes indoors (what are all those blob like holds about?) but I ended up (surprisingly) really enjoying it.
I came 3rd at the first one in Ratho, messed up the 2nd one and then did half okay in the 3rd. I think I ended up coming about 5th overall (but I’m not sure). I don’t think I’ll do them again – just because they’re at a time of year when really I want to be getting strong for the bouldering season.
Jenny
22nd Feb 2012 Wild Country UK Climbing Team 2012 Unveiled
Wild Country are proud to unveil their 2012 UK climbing team - a group of reckless and hardy individuals who help us test and promote our gear whatever the danger and cost to themselves...! Well, it’s not exactly like that, but, led by James 
Pearson, the Wild Country climbing team is peopled with climbers that we feel help represent the values and ideals of Wild Country across the spectrum of the sport.
So, leading the way with a slew of hard ascents in 2011, from almost flashing E10 to multi-pitch monstrosities like Joy Division and flashing 8b+ is James Pearson, now living in France but originally a Buxton lad and working with Wild Country since 2004. There’s a superb video of James in action on his E10 flash attempt here - http://vimeo.com/25140891.
James Pearson seen here on his flash attempt on Muy Caliente E10
Hot on his heels are the incredibly talented ‘Wideboyz’ team of Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker, who as well as tackling the worlds hardest offwidths – and the first ascent of Century Crack E9 (as you may just have heard about) have produced a load of awesome grit routes in the past few years filling some very cool gaps on the Peak District edges – you can see some Century Crack footage here - http://vimeo.com/35270800. Sheffield based there’s also Ben Heason who’s been working with Wild Country for years and is still sending 8b+ and E8, and the enigmatic Miles Gibson – the quiet man of the legendary super-desperates ‘Superstition’ and Superbloc’ on the gritstone. Also Peak based the youthful Hamer brothers have both been performing superbly in 2011: Ed probably outdoing his brother Sam with his fantastic results in the youth world cup climbing comps with a couple of 2nd places – but Sam showing he’s no slouch winding his neck out with few E8’s on the grit to even the scales – see the Hamers’ in action here - http://vimeo.com/26593785.
Last, but not least, long term teamer, Katherine Schirrmacher is hoping to build on her hard trad and grit E7 ascents after a year out to have a baby and build a very successful guiding business and will be starring in and sharing her technical knowledge in Wild Country’s ‘how to’ video series later this year.
Then up in Lancs the super psyched Jordan Buys is joined this year by his wife and partner Naomi to make an all action team. Both are multi discipline masters, mixing bouldering, trad climbing and sports climbing to a very high standard Jordan to 8c and E9 and Naomi to 8a+ and E7. See Jordan in action here: http://vimeo.com/34862987
Over in Yorkshire, Jenny Woodward, has an incredible resume and after a bit of a stop start year last year after having a baby and suffering a few injuries and only sending up to 8A+(!!!) has some even harder projects on the go...watch this space!
Further north, in the Lake District, Dave Birkett and Adam Hocking are both climbing at the highest level and still doing stunning new trad lines and bouldering at the highest level – there’s a great video of Adam on a new E8 here – http://vimeo.com/25808567
New team member Naomi Buys in action on Snap Decision E7 6C Ilkley...
Meanwhile in Scotland the evergreen Malcolm Smith of has been relentless on rock with a recent new 8c+ Blood Diamond, while the fearless Kev Shields simply sets new standards for his bold soloing and some great winter ascents. And across the ‘pond’ in Ireland Andy Marshall has been representing Wild Country and has also sent some pretty rad lines including E8 2nd ascents and plenty more.
Our boulder team (thought that terms a bit restrictive as they’re more than that) is headed up by the amazing Ned Fehally who seems to be taking bouldering up a notch as well as blurring the lines between highball and routes making some very hard ascents in 2011 including Samson E8 7a, and the Prow E9 7a both solo. See Ned in action here: http://vimeo.com/33103583. Nigel Callender also manages to continually impress, sending 8b+ - http://vimeo.com/20435941 - while studying to be a doctor in Newcastle and taking advantage of the awesome sandstone of Northumberland. Then in the south east the strong Ben Read is helping establish a new wave of sandstone desperates as well as writing guidebooks and promoting the excellent climbing around there. Joining these guys this year is year is Stewart Watson, a very strong climber who’s been competing internationally in boulder comps for a number of years and is adding 8c ascents to his pretty awesome bouldering CV.
We also have some young climbers doing well and with Tara Hayes we have one the most up and coming of the UK junior competition climbers who in her first year managed to grab an overall 6th place in the European Youth B standings.
So a big thanks to all those I’ve mentioned and anyone else who’s been flying the Wild Country flag - and you can see more about all Wild Country’s UK team at our website here:
And to get any news from the team first and fastest you can follow Wild Country on:
Twitter - @wildcountryuk
On our Facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wild-Country/97486098594
Or to watch all our videos our Vimeo page is here: http://vimeo.com/wildcountry/videos
Here's young gun Ed Hamer doing what he does best - climbing very very well on something that's very very steep!!!!!!
