Jordan Buys has just sent in another report about his activities which as ever include some stunning ascents:

"A few highlights of the last few months: First Ascent of the Midas touch at Angleszarke without the siderunner. E7 6cish. Used to be E6. Flashing End of the Affair at Curbar. E8 6c. I've wanted this for a very long time but have been thwarted by bad weather on many visits. Harder than I thought it was going to be. 2^nd ascent of Visions in Tan at Hawkcliffe, gave this a good flash go but broke off the tiny hold I chose to use and got bored, so quickly headpointed it. Very safe, probably E6 6c not E7. Falling off the Promise E8 7a and ripping the gear, missing the mat and ripping my pants!! I will be back.

So after that mini-epic I decided to boulder for a bit........and the highlights included.

Flashing Tetris, a stunning font 7c at the Roaches. Ticking Mushin the classic font 7c+ very quickly, in a few goes and then going down and doing Columns, another font 7c+. Quick ascent of the soft font 8a at Hepburn called PreparationH, this was a day trip which piled on the pressure. The pressure worked and I sent it pretty quick, despite being tired from driving. Class problem though.

2^nd ascent of the Dark Angel sit start at Stoupe Brow on the North Yorkshire's east coast sandstone. This is one is a cool font 7c+. 3^rd ascent of Requiem for a Dream, font 8a. This is again at Stoupe Brow. I cant believe climbs like this exist and so little is heard about them. A king line.

2^nd ascent of Dave Sutcliffe's new problems at Eavestones. More to be revealed in a forthcoming Climber mag. I had the tour off Dave and repeated his two hard future classics there, Sky Diamond which is font 7c and Digital Delirium which is about font 7c+/8a maybe.

Finally Naomi and I also had a trip to Spain, climbing in the southern part of Costa Blanca. Had a great time, mostly visiting crags that are not in the rockfax guide. Pretty pleased to have onsighted many routes in the French 7c/8a range. It was great seeing Naomi redpoint one of the 8as I onsighted just in time to catch the plane home!!"

And here's Jordan on one of his many hard bouder ascents 'Requiem For A Dream' Fb 8A Stoupe Brow, North Yorkshire...

Firstly went to the Roaches with friends and the weather was amazing for November. Tops off if you were that keen, it was baking. I pottered for a while not really expecting much in the heat. Everyone was having a great day just doing easy routes.

Paralogism E7 6C

Then John Roberts and Jon Read got on Paralogism the funky E7 6c roof with a bit of persuasion from me....As it cooled down i decided to have a crack at flashing it, the first two pulls on got me through the first bit but, feeling something was not quite right, I down climbed the hard bit which seemed a bit stiff. On the ground I took my boots off, had a word with myself. Then when suited and booted up again I went for the crush. I felt steady away and to be honest I cant remember much other than a large crowd of spectators...!

The Keswickian E8 7A

The next day we went up to Gouther crag near Shap in the lakes. I had been up earlier the previous week and top roped Adam Hocking's The Keswickian cleanly twice. This stunning E8 7a climbs up very easy ground before arranging gear on a massive sling to reduce drag as you pull through the roof above on amazing holds. Not 'amazing' as in massive holds but in that to make them work allsorts of heel funk has to be employed to make the sequence work.

Look out for amazing photos of Jordan from Mike Hutton and Alex Messenger in next months UK magazines...!

Read more about Jordan here....

Jordan wears Wild Country's Vision Sport harness...

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Jordan sending Paralogism on flash E7 6C.....

How good is Mallorca!!!
So it was that time of year again, when the Mediterranean has been in the sun all summer long and reaches a temperature of approximately 26degrees! So 6 of of had 6 days there, two hire cars and a lot of sun forecast. How can you fail to enjoy yourself out there??

Jordan on his first ever 8a onsight abroad, Scooped Arete pics by Joel Pixley (big thanks)
This place works really well for mixed teams as the dws caters for all. We did loads of climbing at Barques and also got into body boarding and beach slacklining. Diablo is a bit more serious but I kinda liked that, no distractions, just big moves above a big angry sea. There I on sighted Afroman the 7b roof and thanks to beta from a brit called Mike out there I flashed Ejector Seat(7c) and In the Night all Cats are Black(8a).

We also got to go to Sa Gubia where two of our team, Gav and Joel nailed one of the big multi pitches in the sun!! Heroes...
A highlight of my trip was getting my first 8a onsight abroad. This was a funky route called Scooped arete, I had to battle but when I stuck the finishing jugs I was buzzing. This level has always been alluding me up until this year, now I ve done a few in the uk and then this one away from home I feel I ve broken the spell.
I ticked a few other 8a's that I narrowly missed the onsight of and also got a tan so all was good.
Cant recommend the place enough.
JB

Jordan on Strangers In Paradise 7b+ pic by Joel Pixlety (big thanks)

Hi guys, just dropping you a quick line to say what i ve been up too.  Recently had a few trips down to the Diamond in North Wales.

There I managed the second ascent of an F8b called The Brute. An awesome power endurance route just recently done by Neil Dyer. This was a very old project on a now in vogue crag. Hats off to Pete Harrison for all his hard working rebolting. 

I've also been getting stuck into Rainshadow at malham, just need it to dry off and hopefully I should nail it. Anyway just about to jet off to mallorca for some DWS fun in the sun!!!!
 
Jordan

All photos courtesy of Mike Hutton see more of his ace photos at his website www.mikehuttonphotography.com

Jordan Buys sent us this quick report about his last few weeks cragging as the UK summer has hit...

"Well it's started to get pretty warm in the UK, so a plan was hatched for the mountains to be our playground. My partner was to be Andi Turner (the summer one as opposed to the winter one).

Jordan escaping the heat at Widdop (a relatively cool weather grit venue) and sending '30 Seconds Over Winterland' E5 6b...Ph Thanks to Mike Hutton - see more of Mike's photos here or at his website...http://www.mikehuttonphotography.com/

We packed his rally car for two days of adventure in the lake district. Boy it was hot, buying a bacon sarnie in Ambleside left us sweating and out of breath, partly due to the prices up there but mainly the heat!  So we did our shopping and blasted up and over the winding roads to Wasdale head, pitched our tent and bombed it up to Napes crag. We did a lovely 3 pitch route graded E3. Its was called The Viking and the middle pitch was what is was all about. A steep offwidth crack proved a fun challenge. We found getting off was a ridge scramble and mud/scree extravaganza!

Wanting to do more we nipped up Napes Needle, it was great in the evening sun and made us really respect the first ascentionist soloing it all those years ago. We then decided we wanted that pub tea and ran all the way back to the campsite, what an error thinking we could be like Birkett. After a quick meal and some star gazing thanks to Andi we went to sleep not knowing what the next day had in store. Pain, pain in our legs like we have never had before is what we awoke to. What fools running back a mile down scree at full pace with big bags on, all for dry pie and chips!

So what do we do then, well lets walk up to East Buttress, only thing is this is all the way up Scafell. We manned up and joined the masses walking up the good path winding up into the clouds. The east buttress was quite but my it was dirty. All we managed was the classic E2 Ichabod, we were so battered it was getting dangerous on the ledges, so we just packed up and left. Not often have I run out of energy like that but this was getting close to my body totally shutting down. Andi related how cyclists get that way and just fall off their bike and lay there in a heap trying to munch dandelions!! I did not want that.

Well we finally got home, now we are wise to what's involved. Now I am training to go back....

The next fun trip involved getting a team together to try out Nesscliffe in Shropshire. We loved it, Nao my wife was taking it easy and just wanted to second stuff, brill cause I love leading stuff back to back. I did one E4, three E5s and an E7. Dom and Andi were checking out the E7 6c, 10 o clock saturday morning. Dom had a good lead attempt but fell onto the peg. It held, though in his pump he had not been able to clip the other one and just kept on climbing!! I had a look and managed to flash it with the beta they shouted up. I loved Nesscliffe.

The venue next up was Reynards Arch down in Dove Dale. This is one cool place, I onsighted the classic f7c+ there; Arch Enemies. Easier stuff lives here too, down to 6b+. Arch Enemies is a must do if you are up to it and enjoy funky 3D climbing. Its one of those 'stand alone' routes like the Spider, Mandela and Thormens Moth."

Jordan on Nuance E5 6b Nesscliffe....