Ned Feehally (UK)
A modest guy Ned's achievements in the last couple of years as he seems to have just got stronger and stronger have made him stand out from the bouldering pack. Ned's been studying at Sheffield Uni with a fulltime biology degree at university and having finished his degree in the summer of 2009 he' sbeen up to plenty: consolidating his climbing and his place as ones of the Uk's most talented boulderers.
And you can see some great footage of Ned in action in the videos here....
Can you give us some background to your climbing?
I started climbing when I was 9. I first went out in the lakes with a friend of my Dad’s. He dragged me up something on a top rope. I thought it was ok, but it didn’t grab me particularly. My parents saw that I liked it and started taking me to the local climbing wall (in Leicester) where eventually I got into it more and more. After that I went to a few of the kids comps and got really keen. It just progressed from there.
Which styles of climbing do you prefer and why? (trad, sport, bouldering, competition etc ?
Bouldering all the way. I have done the odd sport route but never any trad (apart from the odd bit of highballing/soloing). I just can’t get my head around climbing on a rope. I don’t know why but I just become rubbish as soon as I tie in! As for comps, I really enjoy them. They seem to have a bad reputation amongst a lot of climbers but in my experience they are a lot of fun and really inspiring.
How often do you train and how do you structure your sessions?
I train quite a lot, I do something every day, but some days are just stretching or going for a run or something. Climbing wise it depends on the time of year as to what I do. During the comp season I do a lot of fitness/power endurance work, sometimes 2 sessions a day and quite a lot of days on.
Out of comp season I chill out a bit and mainly work on power and basic strength (lots of fingerboarding and climbing on step boards) and try to get out when the weather is good (but often train afterwards as well).
What sorts of specific training to you use? (campus, weights, finger board)
I used to do weights when I was a skinny kid but now I weigh quite a lot so stay away from them. Mainly I train on a fingerboard. My friend Dan Varian (very strong) and I have a business that makes wooden fingerboards. These are great as we designed them with hard training in mind. The texture of the wood allows you to train after a session at the crag or the wall without hurting your skin and all the holds are designed specifically for hanging onto rather than looking cool so you can train to the max without tweaking your fingers on nasty holds.
What would you say are your most memorable moments in climbing to date on the rock, in the gym and in competition?
On rock it is probably all the time I have spent in Font – I love it there. Castle Hill was also an amazing place to be. I have had loads of days out that have just been so much fun, even if I didn’t really climb much. Its nice to get stuff done but you have to have fun at the same time.
Careless Torque really stands out as it is something which I have looked at for years and have always wanted to do. Its such an amazing line. I was so happy when I topped it out.Also I guess winning the BBCs this year was pretty memorable. I never expected to do at all well (I had been on holiday for the month before so wasn’t very prepared) and it was such a surprise. It was also really nice that it was in Sheffield as there were loads of friendly faces about cheering me on.
Top ten boulder problems/climbs in the UK?
It's hard to say. I like anything that has nice holds and nice moves, especially if it is also an amazing line. These are not in any order but are a few that come to mind…
- Careless Torque 8a+
- Queen Kong ??
- Renegade Master (very) Highball 7c
- Toy Boy – (Very) Highball 7c+(??)
- Shine On – Highball 7b+
- Candy Kaned ??
- Lowrider 7C+
- Thumbalina (Very) highball 7B+.
Top ten boulder problems/climbs abroad?
- Again, not in any order…
- La Balance 7C+
- Hyper Plomb and everything else in Font
- Blown Away (Magic Wood)
- Roof of Darkness (Magic Wood)
- Bach Bloc (Brione)
- Loads of stuff at Castle Hill.
Are there any other sports or activities that you make time for outside of climbing?
I do a few other things. I am into music (I play the drums and try to play guitar) but I don’t have the time to be in a band at the moment. I am also into running and a bit of rowing, its good to stay fit.
Our fingerboard business also takes up quite a lot of time.
What goals do you have for the next year and in the future?
In the next year I have to pass my degree, then I will have escaped the education system and can try something else for a bit. I am planning to go to Font in Feb, then maybe South Africa in the summer.
After that I will try to earn some money so I can do a few more internationals as I want to see how well I can do in them if I really put my mind to it. It would be good to consistently make semi-finals or better.
Other than that I just want to enjoy myself. At the moment climbing is lot of fun so I will stick at it and see what happens.
22nd Feb 2012 Wild Country UK Climbing Team 2012 Unveiled
Wild Country are proud to unveil their 2012 UK climbing team - a group of reckless and hardy individuals who help us test and promote our gear whatever the danger and cost to themselves...! Well, it’s not exactly like that, but, led by James
Pearson, the Wild Country climbing team is peopled with climbers that we feel help represent the values and ideals of Wild Country across the spectrum of the sport.
So, leading the way with a slew of hard ascents in 2011, from almost flashing E10 to multi-pitch monstrosities like Joy Division and flashing 8b+ is James Pearson, now living in France but originally a Buxton lad and working with Wild Country since 2004. There’s a superb video of James in action on his E10 flash attempt here - http://vimeo.com/25140891.
James Pearson seen here on his flash attempt on Muy Caliente E10
Hot on his heels are the incredibly talented ‘Wideboyz’ team of Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker, who as well as tackling the worlds hardest offwidths – and the first ascent of Century Crack E9 (as you may just have heard about) have produced a load of awesome grit routes in the past few years filling some very cool gaps on the Peak District edges – you can see some Century Crack footage here - http://vimeo.com/35270800. Sheffield based there’s also Ben Heason who’s been working with Wild Country for years and is still sending 8b+ and E8, and the enigmatic Miles Gibson – the quiet man of the legendary super-desperates ‘Superstition’ and Superbloc’ on the gritstone. Also Peak based the youthful Hamer brothers have both been performing superbly in 2011: Ed probably outdoing his brother Sam with his fantastic results in the youth world cup climbing comps with a couple of 2nd places – but Sam showing he’s no slouch winding his neck out with few E8’s on the grit to even the scales – see the Hamers’ in action here - http://vimeo.com/26593785.
Last, but not least, long term teamer, Katherine Schirrmacher is hoping to build on her hard trad and grit E7 ascents after a year out to have a baby and build a very successful guiding business and will be starring in and sharing her technical knowledge in Wild Country’s ‘how to’ video series later this year.
Then up in Lancs the super psyched Jordan Buys is joined this year by his wife and partner Naomi to make an all action team. Both are multi discipline masters, mixing bouldering, trad climbing and sports climbing to a very high standard Jordan to 8c and E9 and Naomi to 8a+ and E7. See Jordan in action here: http://vimeo.com/34862987
Over in Yorkshire, Jenny Woodward, has an incredible resume and after a bit of a stop start year last year after having a baby and suffering a few injuries and only sending up to 8A+(!!!) has some even harder projects on the go...watch this space!
Further north, in the Lake District, Dave Birkett and Adam Hocking are both climbing at the highest level and still doing stunning new trad lines and bouldering at the highest level – there’s a great video of Adam on a new E8 here – http://vimeo.com/25808567
New team member Naomi Buys in action on Snap Decision E7 6C Ilkley...

Meanwhile in Scotland the evergreen Malcolm Smith of has been relentless on rock with a recent new 8c+ Blood Diamond, while the fearless Kev Shields simply sets new standards for his bold soloing and some great winter ascents. And across the ‘pond’ in Ireland Andy Marshall has been representing Wild Country and has also sent some pretty rad lines including E8 2nd ascents and plenty more.
Our boulder team (thought that terms a bit restrictive as they’re more than that) is headed up by the amazing Ned Fehally who seems to be taking bouldering up a notch as well as blurring the lines between highball and routes making some very hard ascents in 2011 including Samson E8 7a, and the Prow E9 7a both solo. See Ned in action here: http://vimeo.com/33103583. Nigel Callender also manages to continually impress, sending 8b+ - http://vimeo.com/20435941 - while studying to be a doctor in Newcastle and taking advantage of the awesome sandstone of Northumberland. Then in the south east the strong Ben Read is helping establish a new wave of sandstone desperates as well as writing guidebooks and promoting the excellent climbing around there. Joining these guys this year is year is Stewart Watson, a very strong climber who’s been competing internationally in boulder comps for a number of years and is adding 8c ascents to his pretty awesome bouldering CV.
We also have some young climbers doing well and with Tara Hayes we have one the most up and coming of the UK junior competition climbers who in her first year managed to grab an overall 6th place in the European Youth B standings.
So a big thanks to all those I’ve mentioned and anyone else who’s been flying the Wild Country flag - and you can see more about all Wild Country’s UK team at our website here:
And to get any news from the team first and fastest you can follow Wild Country on:
Twitter - @wildcountryuk
On our Facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wild-Country/97486098594
Or to watch all our videos our Vimeo page is here: http://vimeo.com/wildcountry/videos
Here's young gun Ed Hamer doing what he does best - climbing very very well on something that's very very steep!!!!!!

26th Oct 2011 Ned Fehally ticks one of the County's big lines...
Northumberland has been rudely awakened from its slumbering state in the past week. A big team of miscreants headed up over the weekend to bring their raucous bouldering to to bear upon the county sandstone. Prior to this i’d been nursing a crimping niggle on my right middle finger. Luckily there is a hard project at redheugh which doesn’t require too much from bent fingers. there is a picture here:
It has proved frustrating as it would’ve been a lovely 8B but for a hold breaking on the last move before entering into springer’s superb highball 7b Launch Sequence. Now it feels a full notch harder as after 3 sessions i still haven’t quite figured out the last move which is a 1-2 jobby to 2 sidepulls. Any how this was whilst the Quiet County was actually quiet!
Over the weekend the Alan Shearer of the county – Micky Peeeeej – played host to a few Sheffield/yorkshire dwellers and more worked their way upto Belford. Saturday and Sunday both proved to be gorgeous and both days saw some good action. Saturday had The Young (sandbag E8 at callaly) as the target and whilst the route intimidated Micky and Ned enough to make them think twice it still lost the dignity of all its really hard climbing getting walloped and a new variation out left at the end of the crux getting climbed. I’ll try and get more on this from rig firing field reporter Feehally as i wasnt there.
Sunday found us all at kyloe seemingly amongst a pretty full roster of the who’s who of English bouldering with Ned, Micky, Martin, Gangle, Sam and Lu, Hull’s finest, Nicholas Brown! and some boyo called Peegus (who’s Welsh but we let hang around with us anyway as he is stronger than everyone but kindly drops off 8B+s after tickling the last holds). Representing for the rest of the world, Kyloe was also lucky to have Chris Webb-Parsons and Alex Puccio gracing its sharp features.
Mickys new found vocational love for accessing things via rope lead him to suggest trying THE Prow, madness which was soon confirmed by Ned. Luckily i’d also quietly thought this was a great day to try it, as Kyloe never sees many pads by chance so it was a great time to try and seize them. Unfortunately its not like padding out End of the Affair or Gaia or something where by if you look at them on a rope the pads will be there incase you fall off but you aren’t likely too. With Andy’s routes/problems the pads are there because you know you’re going to fall off. He didn’t win and come consistently in the top 5 in world cups for nowt and 8As aren’t something which bothered him in 2003 when he did the prow (and Monk life). Infact when it was done he gave it 7c+ as a boulder grade. Old UKC news article below.
On April 2, Andy Earl completed his long standing project at Klyloe in the woods, Northumberland. “The Prow” (which Andy has refused to grade!) takes the impressive blank arete of the Crucifix buttress at the right end of the crag
This line was first looked at by Ritchie Patterson; however given Andy´s record in the Woods, he was fittingly the man to take up the challenge. The route is a solo and features Font 7c/7c+ moves far too far above the ground for comfort. Despite Andy´s reservation on grading the route, it is perhaps the hardest and most commiting route in Northumberland when compared with routes like Malcolm Smiths Transcendence which features easier moves and adequate protection!
Except the 7c+ part is piffle (as is the part of comparing it to transcendence as that is a route which has 7c+ bouldering moves, but it wont be soloed witout some serious stunt bags or unfeasibly big balls), Adam “Big Foot” Watson snapped a few chicken heads off The Prow on a foray a while back, both Me Ned and Micky crumbled holds on sunday. Nothing crucial but increments that lead us to feel more like it was 8A if abbed and 8A+ to ground up (which none of us were super keen for, as getting it done in the small window of paddage was the main aim). Granted if it was totally safe and you chopped the bottom 3m off then maybe it’d feel like 7C+ but if things like misericorde are supposed to be the same grade or even hitchhikers sit then it definitely feels a bit harder and it is similar with most of the hard holds being 2 finger crimps in pockets. We all took turns to ab it and pry out its secrets. Micky was looking super solid on the rope and me and Ned decidedly more shaky after giving the rope a good coring we got rid of it and thanks to a huge amount of help off our mates we whacked about 8pads underneath it and set off. Micky had forgotten to work a lower move and needed to be home at 6 which was obviously bug bearing him as a cobbed-ankle would disrupt those plans somewhat. Neds first go was superb, wobbling his way upto the last hard move where a broken foothold lead to him peeling off the hold at the end of the crux and just catching the edge of a 3ft high pad stack. My first go was poor, with slightly messed feet i unwittingly decided to test the lower fall. Next go i decided to give it beans and promptly woke up on the last move with beta i’d only looked at once and wet jugs (it had been covered in pine needles and moss) for company, after a bit of a kerfuffle i sorted myself out and topped out for the 2nd ascent. Ned faffed on a bit more and tested a few different falls from a fumbleable stab to a tiny pocket. After a little break due to Micky and Dave’s departure and things seemed to cool down a bit and Ned silently came up with the 3rd ascent. To me it still felt like i was bouldering and both Ned and Mick felt it was less serious than their young variation but harder. So maybe nouveau-highball 8A (or 8A+ if it gets ground upped ever) will be a better reflection of the likely challenge, Its more than happy alongside things like Superbloc. Lanny, The Magician, High Fidelity etc as a proud highball challenge.
Nick Brown got it all on film for “Life on Hold” along with the antics at The Young the day before. As no day out is complete nowadays without a wise cracking lens wielder in tow.
Pic from Nick:





