Kevin Thaw (US)

Kevin Thaw has been called the "best all-around climber in Britain," (Climber magazine) and with his move to California several ago, his status has made him one of America's most celebrated climbers. Kevin's days of climbing began in his hometown of Uppermill, England where he quickly earned a reputation.

His first ascents include perilous routes such as "Scuttle Buttin' " E7 6c (13b X); "Breakin' for a Bogey" E6 6c (13bR); "Minnie Monster" E6/7 6c (13b/c R). 2nd ascents of "Thing on a Spring" E6 7a, "Appointment with Fear" E7 6b, "Possessed" E7, "Scoop de Grace" E5 7a (UK first 7a?). Sport routes, such as; "Austrian Oak" 8a+; "Revelations" 8a+, "Powerband" 8b.

New Routes

Alpine:

  • Fitzroy's West face, 2600m VI 85º 11c (first free ascent) (Patagonia, Argentina).
  • SCUD, 1300m 5.11 A1+ W4+, Cerro Standhardt direct start to Exocet (Patagonia, Argentina).
  • The Thaw’s not Houlding Wright, 1400m 5.10+ Aguja de l’ S West face (Patagonia, Argentina).
  • Crowfoot Mtn V WI4 M6 (Rockies, Canada).
  • Cup Tie V 11 A2 Mt Temple's N Face (Rockies, Canada).
  • Mt Luis Direct East Face V 5.10+R (Rockies, Canada).

Big Walls:

  • El Capitan's Continental Drift VI 5.10 A4 (Yosemite, CA).
  • Dreams of Sea VI 5.10+ (Kichatnas, AK).
  • Alaskan Rose VI 11c (Kichatnas, AK).
  • Sand, Sand n’ Sand VI 5.11+ A4 (Zion, UT).
  • Sentinel’s Direct North face, V 5.12b first free ascent (Yosemite, CA)

Ice & Mixed:

  • Gogarth Crack,M9 (Ouray, CO).
  • Careless Torque M8, Staged Fright M7, Haggis Country WI5 M7 (Lee Vining, CA).
  • Rebel Alliance VII 8 (Cairngorms, Scotland).

UK Gritstone, (Traditional routes):

  • Order of the Phoenix E9 6c
  • Sectioned E8 6c
  • Scuttle Buttin E7 6c
  • Minnie Monster E6/7 6c
  • Breakin for a Bogey E6 6c
  • Piedra Verde E6 6a
  • Northern Passing XS 6c,…

California:

  • Standard 8b 13d
  • Brachiation Dance 13c
  • Crema del Este 13b/c
  • Car logos n’ Savage Sets 5.13b
  • Moondance 13b
  • Stun Gun Direct 5.13b
  • Nailed to the Cross 5.13a
  • Cadillac Desert 13a
  • Bolt Worthy 5.12d
  • Toxteth Walk 5.12c
  • Pennine Crack, 12c
  • To Hold 5.12c,
  • Druid’s scoop E6 6a,…

Significant Ascents

Alpine:

Nepali Himalaya, Pumori East Face. Cholatse Southwest Ridge.
Alpine style attempt Jannu North Face. Garhwal Himalaya India, attempted Kedar Dome's E pillar alpine style.
Argentine Patagonia, Fitzroy North (Cassarotto) Pillar 1400m, 5.11+. Poincenot West face (Fonrouge) 1300m, 5.11+. Cerro Torre Compressor route.
Ruth Gorge Alaska, Eye Tooth's 3rd ascent, W Pillar.
French Alps, solo’s of Midi’s Frendo Spur TD (3h 56m), Swiss Route Les Courtes TD (3h 28m), North face of Les Droites ED1 (8h), Bonatti Zappelli Mt Blanc, ED1 winter.
Rolling Stone ED3 & No Siesta ED2/3, early repeats (Grand Jorasses).

Big Walls:

Reticent Wall VI 5.9 A5 second ascent, Plastic Surgery Disaster VI 5.9 A5 second ascent (El Capitan, CA).Early repeats of: Gulf Stream A4+ (3rd ascent), Shortest Straw A4 (3rd), KAOS A4 (5th), Sea of Dreams A5 (5th), Wyoming Sheep Ranch A5 (7th), Space A4+ (2nd solo), Roulette A5. Many Continuous push "Speed" ascents: West Buttress (Solo) A3+, Lost in America A5, Born Under a Bad Sign A5, Magic Mushroom A4, Flight of the Albatross A3+, Shortest Straw A4, Horsechute A3, Nose (6 hours), Sunkist A4, Eagle's Way A3, Shield, Salathe, Lurking Fear,... (El Capitan, CA).

Ice & Mixed:

Replicant V WI 7, French Reality V WI6+, Nemesis VI WI6, Sea of Vapours V M6 WI6+ (Canadian Rockies). Onsighted Amphibian’s 1st pitch M8+ (Vail CO). Winter solos of Slipstream, V WI4+ and Andromeda’s Shooting Gallery IV 9 M5 (Rockies, Canada).

Free Climbing:

Benign Lives E7 6c (on-sight solo). Thing on a String E6 7a (2nd ascent), Appointment with Fear E7 6b (2nd ascent). Shine On E8 6c, Moon Madness E8 6c, End of the Affair E8 6c. (UK Gritstone).
On-sighted several 5.13b (8a) routes including the 2nd ascent of Joshua Tree's (CA) Taste the Pain 13b.

Bouldering:

Slice & Dice V11, Stained Glass V11 (Bishop, CA). Midnight Cowboy V10, Cilley V10, Thriller, Midnight Lightning,...